Used car buying guide
Questions to ask when buying a used car
The right questions do two things: they surface problems, and they let you check the seller’s answers against the record. Here are the ones that matter, grouped by what they protect you from — with a note on how to verify each.
Start with the MOT history
Many of the answers below can be checked in seconds. It’s free.
1. MOT and mechanical history
“Has it had any MOT failures, and what were they for?”
Cross-check the answer against the actual MOT record — a seller who forgets a failure is worth a second look. A free MOT history check shows every fail and the reason.
“Are there any current or recurring advisories?”
The same advisory appearing year after year (brakes, tyres, suspension, corrosion) usually means a fault that was never properly fixed.
“When is the next MOT due, and do you expect it to pass?”
A car sold just before its MOT can be a way to pass on a known failure. Ask, then judge it against the recorded history.
“Has any major work been done — clutch, timing belt, turbo?”
Big jobs should come with invoices. "I think the last owner did it" is not a service record.
2. Mileage and usage
“Does the mileage match the MOT readings?”
Every MOT records the odometer. A reading that drops, or jumps unusually, is a red flag for clocking or a replacement cluster.
“What was the car mainly used for?”
Motorway commuting, short city trips, towing and private-hire work all wear a car differently. High, very even annual mileage can indicate commercial use.
“Why is the mileage so low for its age?”
Low mileage isn't automatically good — long periods off the road bring their own problems. Ask what the pattern reflects.
3. Ownership and paperwork
“How many previous owners has it had?”
Frequent changes of keeper in a short window can signal a car people bought and quickly moved on.
“Do you have the V5C logbook in your name?”
The name and address on the V5C should match the seller. If it doesn't, stop and find out why.
“Is there a full service history?”
Ideally stamped or with invoices. Gaps aren't fatal, but they should be explained.
“Is there any outstanding finance on the car?”
If there's finance owing, the car can legally be repossessed even after you buy it. This needs a dedicated finance/HPI check, separate from MOT history.
“Has it ever been written off or in a major accident?”
Category write-offs and significant repairs affect safety and value — another job for a finance/insurance-history check.
4. Condition and the test drive
“Can I see it started from cold?”
A warmed-up engine can hide starting and smoke problems. Insist on a cold start.
“Are there any warning lights on the dashboard?”
Ask before you view, and check nothing has been reset or taped over.
“Any known faults, leaks or noises?”
An honest seller will mention the small stuff. Vagueness here is telling.
“Can I take it for a proper test drive?”
Long enough to reach motorway speed, brake hard, and hear it at temperature — not just around the block.
5. Price and next steps
“Is there any flexibility on the price?”
Recorded advisories and upcoming repair costs are legitimate, evidenced negotiating points.
“Would you accept the sale subject to an independent inspection?”
A seller with nothing to hide won't object to an AA/RAC or specialist inspection.
“Why are you selling it?”
Not decisive on its own, but the answer — and how readily it's given — adds useful context.
Check the car before you go and see it
Walk in already knowing its MOT history, mileage pattern and likely next-test outlook. You’ll ask better questions and spot a weak answer instantly.